Around Florence with Pitti Uomo 92

If “men are like bulls, they cannot resist red,” according to Christian Louboutin, then come prepared for even more temptation from the Parisian shoe designer at Pitti Immagine Uomo 92.  Famed for his red-soled stilettos, Louboutin has just unveiled a new collection of men’s sneakers inspired by ‘90s basketball athletic wear.  He will be the host of a special tournament in the center, featuring eight competing teams from around the world and a series of master classes (June 13 in Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 9 am – 6 pm).

In addition to Louboutin’s tournament, several other Florence Fashion Week happenings will be accessible to the public.  Look up to the sky on June 12 to see the Sonics, a renowned Italian team of aerial gymnasts and acrobats, exhibiting daredevil stunts of “Meraviglia (The Wonder of) Water and Flames.”  Held above at Piazza Pitti starting at 10 pm, the show is sponsored by the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana.

FOR THE PUBLIC

Among the more anticipated events is the ninth edition of “Who Is On Next? Uomo,” a competition dedicated to the search of new Italian talents in men’s fashion. This year’s winner will be announced on June 13 during the Pitti Immagine Uomo 92’s opening ceremony in Palazzo Vecchio.  Italian Army paratroopers, performing demo jumps with flags in a skydiving display, will mark the official kickoff’s grand finale in Piazza della Signoria.

Later the same day, “Il Museo Effimero della Moda” (The Temporary Museum of Fashion), produced by the Pitti Immagine Discovery Foundation in conjunction with the Uffizi Gallery and the Parisian museum Palais Galliera, will be inaugurated at the Pitti Palace’s Costume Gallery (6 pm).

Curated by Olivier Saillard, director of Palais Galliera, the exhibition will remain open to the public until October 22 to showcase nearly 200 items of clothing and accessories.  Dating from the mid-19th century to the present, the clothes were created by the world’s most prestigious dressmakers and ateliers, including Roberto Capucci, Maison Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, Gianfranco Ferré and Christian Lacroix.  Contemporary fashion will also be well represented with selections from the latest collections of Gucci, Fendi, Armani, Valentino, Prada, John Galliano, Lanvin and others.

The inaugural day of the Firenze Summer Festival at the Cascine Park on Wednesday, June 14 hosts a trifecta of music’s recent favorites: a performance of JUNJUN (an album born from the mind of Israeli composer Shye Ben Tzur and the Rajasthan Express) followed by British singer James Blake’s honey sweet voice and electric sounds. Legendary English rock band Radiohead, who have been together and performing since 1985, will close out the evening.

THE MAIN EVENT

The 92nd Pitti Uomo, the international trade platform for men’s fashion, will display an impressive 1220 collections and brands for Spring/Summer 2018, in a packed program with shows, pop up stores and digital activities at the Fortezza.

This edition marks the return to Pitti Uomo of the British legend Sir Paul Smith, who will present his PS by Paul Smith collection, which is strongly influenced by sportswear and his love of cycling (Padiglione delle Ghiaia, June 14, 4 pm).

Swiss luxury brand Bally will debut at Pitti Uomo, launching its S/S 2018 retro sneakers. The collection includes four replications of its most successful models, from hip-hop era classics to tennis shoes and sporty runners, in a special installation located in the fair’s Main Forecourt (June 14, 6:30 – 9 pm).

Australia is the guest nation. The Pitti Immagine Discovery Foundation and The Woolmark Company will highlight eight young Australian designers and share their collections in the special Spazio Carra area in the Main Pavilion (June 14, 11 am).

Outside the Fortezza, JW Anderson, Pitti 92’s special guest, will be in town for the Italian debut of his clothing line at the spectacular Villa La Pietra up in the hills (June 14, 7 pm). The NYU Florence campus was not a casual choice as Anderson was influenced by the contemporary art and the youth culture. This Northern Irish designer is the Creative Director of Loewe (the Madrid-based LVMH luxury brand) and a recipient of a series of prestigious awards, including an historic double award for “Menswear” and “Womenswear Designer of the Year” in 2015.

Florentine designer Federico Curradi will pay a tribute to the importance of his native city in a show that includes references to local craftsmanship and calcio storico (a local historical game that is a mixture of soccer, football and rugby) at the Bardini Museum (June 14, 9 am). The city’s former royal railway station, the Stazione Leopolda, will be the stage for a catwalk show by the Japanese designer Yoshio Kubo (June 15 at 12 noon).

Women’s pre-collection will be also on display by Hugo Boss’s brand HUGO at a special event combining men’s and women’s wear releases on Tuesday June 13 (9 pm) at the Manifattura Tabacchi, a former tobacco factory near the Cascine Park.

Louboutin’s color theme will be carried forward by Lanerossi, a historic brand that is the pride of the Italian textile tradition, in a bicentennial celebration at the Limonaia of Villa Vittoria with an exhibition-event from June 13 to 16, “The Red Thread of Ideas: 200 years of Lanerossi.” It is dedicated to the significant contribution of important names associated with the company starting in the ‘30s, from painter and illustrator Adolfo Busi to photographer Ugo Mulas. The retrospective, sponsored by Filivivi and Marzotto, will also be staged at Pitti Filati.

These are some of the highlights: the full program can be found at www.pittimmagine.com. (celeste giampietro collins)