The Caffé Giubbe Rosse Returns to Florence

 

Located in Piazza della Repubblica, Caffè Giubbe Rosse has reopened to the public after five years of closure, reestablishing its status as an iconic venue in central Florence. Known for its rich history as a cultural hub for writers, artists and intellectuals, this historic institution, along with its waiters in red, returns to the square.  

Excellent service and good food aside, the café is renowned for its role in the cultivation of the arts in the city, as a meeting point and common ground for great minds of the not too distant past. Having been established in 1897 by two German brothers as ‘’Reninghaus Brewery,’’ the café became known for the wait staff in red jackets, as was popular in Austria at the time hence its name eventually becoming Giubbe Rosse amongst locals, and later, officially.

Guests today can enjoy a variety of offerings, including light lunches, coffees, sweet treats, savory breakfasts, salads, aperitivi, and fine dining.  Chef Giuseppe Lo Presti creates dishes combining local Tuscan products with a touch of Sicilian influence.

In addition to popular seafood tartares, the lunch menu features a dish called Rombo Chiodato, a white fish filet with a ratatouille of roasted onions, fresh eggplant, zucchini and peppers, in a light tomato sauce.  Alternatively, one could order an appealing twist on the New York-born club sandwich; the Club Sandwich delle Giubbe Rosse. Toasted bread is filled with chicken breast, fried egg, guanciale (Italian bacon, from Tuscany’s Casentino area), grilled tomato, and oregano.

Initially, the Caffè Giubbe Rosse’s reputation as a meeting point was established due to its hosting of a chess club, which through its existence welcomed individuals including Andre Gide and other poets and intellectuals. This momentum in welcoming important individuals was retained after with the cafe’s third, and back-most room becoming the official home of Florentine Futurist artists and their movement in 1913. 

The Giubbe Rosse also became the birthplace of several influential publications, including Lacerba, La Voce, Il Selvaggi, Solaria and Campo di Marte; the latter two were founded at the cafe, in 1926 and 1938, respectively. During the Second World War, Caffè Giubbe Rosse was commandeered by American troops who made it their headquarters and it was not until 1947 that the café reopened. In more recent years, the Caffè has also become the place of origin of the magazine Il Portolano. 

Notable literary personalities who frequented the Giubbe Rosse include Eugenio Montale, Elio Vittorini, Umberto Saba, Dino Campana, Giovanni Papini, Aldo Palezzeschi and Tommaso Landolfi, while also welcoming young Florentine painters such as Ottone Rosai and Primo Conti.  

Most recently the Caffè Giubbe Rosse closed in December 2018, and Scudieri International Srl. took over the management of the business in 2019. Originally the reopening of the café was expected for Spring 2020 but, of course, the pandemic disrupted these plans. As a result, five years after the change of management, Caffè Giubbe Rosse has reopened following renovations of the wood interior, the decor, and light fixtures, with original features, like the stained glass windows in the back room, which have been left in their beautiful original state. 

Whilst under new legislation the café cannot host a mounted, outdoor space like the establishments on either side, but it has just opened a terrace section with seating to offer patio dining. The management also aspires to re-establish the venue as a caffè letterario, in the near future, as in line with its heritage.  (Lucy Turner)