The Next Generations of Pitti Uomo 89

Image by Rog Walker
Image by Rog Walker

January 12-15: Pitti Immagine Uomo 89, Florence.  Fortezza da Basso and other venues.

International fashion returns to Florence with the semi-annual trade fairs, providing the stage for Pitti Uomo (menswear) from January 12-15, Pitti Bimbo (kid’s styles) January 21-23 and Pitti Filati (textiles) January 27-29.  While the main events will take place at the Fortezza da Basso, the city’s largest historical landmark, other happenings, including performances, cocktail parties and new store openings, are scheduled in select locations around the city.

PREVIEW

In anticipation, LuisaViaRoma will be hosting the 12th edition of Firenze4Ever, a three-day platform dedicated to TechDreamers, during which the world’s most prominent fashion bloggers and influencers will be brought together to share ideas on January 9-11.  For Pitti Uomo 89 the oldest theater in Florence, the Niccolini, constructed in 1652 and inaugurated in 1658, has reopened finally after 20 years. Formerly known as the Teatro del Cocomero, it still preserves the original 18th century elaborate wooden architecture. Publisher Mauro Pagliai is credited for the restoration and transformation of this abandoned theater into a multi-functional cultural center.

A young creative who has been working for Fendi originally from Messina, Marco De Vincenzo, Pitti’s Women’s Wear Guest Designer, will present his unique styling with a spectacular, site-specific performance on Thursday, January 14.  It will be the newly renovated Teatro Niccolini’s first fashion event.

FLORENCE MEN’S FASHION WEEK

The official opening in the Sala d’Arme of Palazzo Vecchio on Tuesday, January 12 of the world’s most important trade platform for men’s clothing and accessory collections will inaugurate Pitti Uomo’s 89th edition.

An estimated 1205 labels are expected to participate, 520 of which are from abroad, drawing buyers from around the world.  Among the exhibitors, Colmar Originals will unveil The Future Generation, to celebrate the launch of a capsule collection in collaboration with Vogue Talents in the splendid setting of the Opera di Firenze.  Herno, a leader in luxury sportswear, will share its Autumn-Winter 2016-17 collection where the masterly tailoring of the brand blends with the visionary aesthetic and color of the great contemporary illustrator Pierre-Louis Mascia.  From abroad comes the British label Aquascutum, the creator of Humphrey Bogart’s iconic trench in Casablanca.  Among the Italians, Patrizia Pepe and Il Bisonte will be represented as well as the prestigious outdoor French brand Pyrenex and many others.

Pitti Generation(s) is the guiding theme for Pitti Uomo 89 and explores how today’s fashion is dominated by the interaction of different yet concurrent generations, influencing ways of dressing and lifestyles.  The contemporary pace compresses time and in fashion this phenomenon is even more marked.  The concept of age is becoming more of a mental attitude than a number and where style breaks down traditional ideas about generational roles.

Scouting for young designers and opening up an inclusive dialogue with the rest of the world are cornerstone themes for the Pitti Uomo.  The timeless auto brand MINI, together with the Fondazione Pitti Discovery, are the organizers of Pitti Italics.  This program promotes and supports the promising international new generation of fashion designers and the most interesting labels designed and produced in Italy.  In this edition Federico Curradi and Vittorio Branchizio will show their menswear collections Tuesday, January 12 and Wednesday, January 13 at the Dogana (Via Valfonda).

Watch out for the new generation of artisans from all over the world.  Their refined pieces are characterized by an extreme attention to detail and traditional processes while sensitive to the spirit of today.  They will be featured at Pitti Uomo as the main players in MAKE, dedicated to fashion with a high artisanal content.

Together with MAKE, 16 sections comprise Pitti’s men’s fashion itinerary.  I PLAY highlights styles that blend urban lifestyles with sport’s technology.  TOUCH! presents the most visionary and cutting edge designs.  Following the success of its June debut, OPEN is the Pitti Immagine project that offers a sophisticated interpretation of new-generation, gender-blurring collections — a market segment with huge international appeal.  BORN IN THE USA by Liberty Fairs, displays some of the best born-and-made of the American brands to showcase a great mix that ranges from classic styles to sportswear.

The Pitti Uomo 89 Menswear Guest Designer for the first time will be from Korea.  Juun.J was nominated by the Asia Times as among the four most interesting stylists to watch at the moment.  He will present his menswear collection in Florence on Wednesday 13th at the Stazione Leopolda “starring” the creative aspects of his 3D fashions described by Juun.J as “street tailoring.”

Among the special events, the prestigious International Woolmark Prize menswear final takes place during Pitti Uomo for the first time on Wednesday, January 13 at Villa Favard, home of the Polimoda International Institute of Fashion Design and Business in addition to the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Begun in 1953 by the International Wool Secretariat, now the Woolmark Company, the award, focusing on women’s fashion, was given to Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld in 1954.  Other important recipients include Giorgio Armani in 1989, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana in 1991, Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren in 1992.  The prize was revived four years ago and a menswear category was introduced in 2014.  Raffaele Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, said the collaboration with the International Woolmark Prize “is yet another confirmation of Pitti Uomo’s leading position in men’s fashion.”

The conference “eGiornalismo” will address the new frontiers of journalism with the participation of Sara Maino, fashion editor of Vogue Talents, Marco Pratellesi, chief editor of Espresso and Simone Marchetti, fashion editor of Repubblica.it.  There is a lot of anticipation for the January 13 preview of the Fashion Film Festival of Milan at 4:30 pm.  This international event will highlight renowned directors, important brands, designers and emerging videomakers.

Other initiatives of note include the world premiere of the second episode of The Good Italian, a series of short movies, starring Giancarlo Giannini, to celebrate the Italian lifestyle.  It is sponsored by Caruso, a custom tailored menswear label founded at the end of the sixties by Raffaele Caruso.  In collaboration with the ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative, the project “Generation Africa” promotes young and talented designers from Africa.

A workshop, “The New Millenial’s Bag,” is organized by the Tuscan company The Bridge.  In conjunction with “Gender Action,” will be an initiative by the Istituto Europeo di Design (Ied) of Florence.  Entitled “50 Years of Italian Beauty” the contents will be revealed during a ‘video mapping’ light show on the facade of the historic La Rinascente department store from January 11-17.  Creativity is again the focus January 12-14 at its via Bufalini campus with a show of down jackets from the Italian label Save the Duck redesigned by Ied students.

Although Pitti Immagine Uomo is strictly limited to buyers, journalists and members of the fashion industry, the whole city becomes a vibrant stage.  The streets and squares will be filled with fashionistas and even occasionally models posing for a photo shoot.  Pitti Uomo can also be followed online and through social media using the hashtags #pittiuomo #pu89 #pittigenerations #pittipeople.  In addition, e-Pitti.com will officially launch its new “Ready to Order” APP for the iPad. (celeste giampietro collins)