Hot Summer, Florence’s Cool Riverside Scene
Nestled along the Arno are pockets of festive summertime pop-up cafes. Far away from the touristy riverside joints near Ponte Vecchio, these temporary eateries boast a relaxing ambience indicative of a local Florentine experience. Along the Lungarno, visitors can find a medley of food trucks, bars, and outdoor stages: the perfect formula for a date night or a summer evening spent with friends and family.
First in line for the nighttime cafés, Il Fiorino Sull’Arno is the perfect place to settle in for an evening. Next to the Ponte San Niccolò, this casual spot has an outdoor stage that hosts free performances of everything from rock bands to flamenco dancers. With strings of fairy lights, the venue is best enjoyed at twilight. For the past few weeks, the cozy seating area has been especially packed; World Cup fanatics have flocked to the stage-turned-screen, filling the park with sounds of cheering (or screaming). If no seats are available, don’t pack up yet. Enjoy the ever-changing rotation of entertainment from the wall dividing the Fiorino from the road, and let your feet dangle as you sit. In addition to performances, people watching is a similarly engrossing activity; grab dinner at one of Il Fiorino’s two restaurants and take in the surroundings.
Further down the river you’ll find Lungarno del Tempio, unmistakable by the pop of color and taste it adds to central Florence’s far end. With a semi-circle arrangement of food trucks, the area brings easy dining to a peaceful water-side venue. Its combination of picnic chairs and wooden tables invites guests to settle in, enjoying street food with a view.
Included in the array of choices in Lungarno del Tempio is PescePane, a sea foam green truck that combines two Italian staples—fish and bread—to make finger food ideal for even the pickiest of eaters. Next to PescePane, enjoy hot dogs and gelato at Il Panino Tondo. The food truck offers many flavors of the summertime staple made with fresh, organic ingredients. Try a combination of pistachio and chocolate for the perfect icy treat. The hotdog menu is likewise diverse; the garnish options include truffle relish and pesto, as well as the classic ketchup and mustard.
Ending the row, La Toraia opens the windows of its fire-engine red truck to present standard American street food and various drink options including Tuscan Chianina beef hamburgers and their own crafts beers. Sample a cold draft Pilsner for €4 and unwind from the day. Facing La Toraia, Phil’s American Barbecue provides a tangy alternative to dinnertime fare. With a menu that includes brisket, beef, and ribs, the slow-smoked restaurant is the messy eater’s playground, bringing a taste of the States to the Arno.
Like Il Fiorino, Lungarno del Tempio often supplements mealtimes with entertainment, playing host to summertime events and concerts. With a schedule that includes live music, book presentations, and even circus performances, the venue is the perfect summer locale, open from noon to midnight.
A little ways along the Arno is Molo 5: a wood-beamed outdoor spot designated for food trucks selling world-wide cuisine. Il Polpaio brings seafood from the Island of Elba to the banks of the Arno, while Koto Ramen prepares traditional Japanese dishes with fresh Italian ingredients. Get your American food fix with Ditta Eredi L. Nigro which offers melty cheeseburgers, savory hot dogs, and crispy french fries. For fare that feels more authentic, head to Simbiosi Organic Pizza and order classic Italian pizzas, made from only the freshest ingredients: Tuscan organic tomatoes, ethically sourced mozzarella, and stone-ground flour. Order the traditional margherita and take note of the mozzarella bubbling in the clay oven. After dinner, grab a drink at Rex: a pop-up bar offering vodka sodas, beer on tap, and more. Hold onto your glass as you search for a seat at one of the many picnic tables overlooking the river. If the tables are too crowded, give the grass as chance, and sit in front of the Arno to watch the rowers paddle down the river.
Further down is Utopiko: a lively spot located in a spacious park. Difficult to miss, Utopiko’s loop of neon lights illuminates the bar from the street, enticing passersby to stop in and see the bursts of color for themselves. Give the pop-ups a chance, and you’ll listen to cool bands, enjoy Aperol Spritzes, and dance alongside the river. With an underground vibe and a varied live music schedule, Utopiko is a cheerful niche scene.
For a more formal setting, head over to Wood Music Garden Lounge for music, cocktails, and aperitivo. Perch on rustic log-seats to enjoy the sunset. Private parties can rent the space immediately beside the river.
For those wanting to get a taste of the local scene, take a stroll down by the Arno. If you’re debating whether to spend a night at a pop-up cafe, the answer is easy. The harder question to answer is which venue to choose. (anna staropoli & isabelle blank)
