Easter in Florence from Culinary & Concerts to Church during COVID-19

With the Coronavirus lockdown extended to April 12 and perhaps beyond, the Scoppio del Carro (Explosion of the Cart) in Florence’s piazza Duomo, a centuries-old signature Easter Sunday ritual, will not take place.  There are, however, other ways to celebrate both the prelude and Easter weekend from cuisine to religious ceremonies and a virtual visit to the currently inaccessible Florence cathedral; the following is a guide to Easter from culinary to church during COVID-19.

FOOD

With all the city’s specialty shops temporarily closed, the iconic chocolate egg can be purchased at local supermarkets (note that Coop is collecting voluntary cash donations from customers so that volunteer associations can directly help those in need). A traditional artisanal choice is the handmade solid chocolate Easter egg by Presat, official suppliers of the English royal family, available in Florence thanks to home delivery provided by the Erboristeria San Simone on via Ghibellina.  Of the highest quality, and not extravagant in price, the egg has a dark chocolate shell, and a milk chocolate filling.  To order, call 055-0517646 Monday through Friday from 10 am to 5 pm, 393 8234575 on Saturday or send an email to info@anticaerboristeriasansimone.it.

The customary picnic on Pasquetta can be substituted by a family barbecue on the terrace with genuine Chianina steak or hamburger made with meat straight from the La Toraia family ranch in Tuscany’s Val di Chiana.  Delivery is free; for information and orders, call 333 7997556.

LECTURE IN ENGLISH

Another event during Easter week for the international community is the Wednesday, April 8, British Institute lecture at 6 pm via Zoom (meeting ID: 276 957 5320, password: 970164). In this talk Mark Roberts provides a rapid survey of Anglo-Florentine life from the late-14th to the late-18th century, concentrating on a selection of the more interesting residents and visitors.  A donation is requested; 50% of which will help the Institute, with the remaining 50% given to the Il Cuore di Firenze foundation towards the purchase of ventilators needed during the COVID-19 health emergency.

CLASSICAL MUSIC

Florence’s Teatro del Maggio, not wanting to deprive listeners of entertainment, offers classical music to all from their archives on Facebook (@maggiomusicale).  This week’s schedule is as follows.

April 7 (8 pm): the audience will be treated to an opera, Falstaff by Giuseppe Verdi, conducted by Zubin Metha.

April 8 (8 pm):  the Verdi opera La Forza del Destino.

April 9 (8 pm): another opera by Verdi, Don Carlo conducted by Zubin Metha.

April 10 (8 pm): on stage will be La Fanciulla del West, an opera by Giacomo Puccini.

April 11 (3:30 pm): La Rondine, opera by Giacomo Puccini that was performed at the Teatro del Maggio during the 2017-18 season.

Le Villi, an opera by Puccini, will be streamed at 8 pm.

April 12 (3:30 pm): Zubin Metha conducts the Maggio Musicale Orchestra an interpretation of Rimsky-Korsakov’s Shéhérazade featuring violin soloist Yehezkel Yerushalmi.

At 8 pm, there will be an all-Mozart  symphonic concert conducted by Riccardo Muti highlighting the talent of soloist Sviatoslav Richter on the piano.

CHURCH SERVICES

The Easter Sunday Mass in Florence’s Cathedral starting at 9:30 am will be live-streamed on the Toscana Oggi and Radio Toscana websites.  During the Gloria, when the Easter dove (la colombina) normally navigates from the altar to the Brindellone (Easter cart) outside to set off fireworks, Cardinal Betori will instead carry the massive and ritual Easter candle down the main aisle to piazza del Duomo.  There, he will be joined by Florence mayor Dario Nardella.

A participant of an 11th century Crusade, Pazzino di Pazzi of Florence, the first knight to scale the walls of Jerusalem, was rewarded with three stone flints from the Holy Sepulchre.  As per tradition, the Easter Candle will be lit during the Holy Saturday night watch using those same flints.

There is now live streaming of Sunday afternoon mass at San Miniato al Monte celebrated by Abbot Bernardo Gianni on his Facebook page.  For English-speakers, the St. James American church and St. Mark’s English church are doing the same on Sunday morning through the Facebook page of the same name.

The bells will ring in all churches throughout the greater Florence metropolitan area on Easter at 12 noon.  (rosanna cirigliano)